Friday, July 02, 2004

Smoky Tok

Wednesday, June 30
We broke camp in Haines around 10:30 for the three day drive to Valdez, AK (700 miles). We re-entered British Columbia for a short while and then into the Yukon Territory thru Haines Junction. I topped off the fuel tank there at 101.9/liter ($2.88/gal...a new record!).

The forest fires that I mentioned earlier are in the area north of Tok, AK. Every road into Alaska goes thru Tok. Whether you are going to Valdez, Anchorage, Kenai or Fairbanks, you go thru Tok. I understand that the fires were started by lightning and that the authorities have decided to let them burn naturally with no effort at containment. I do not know this for a fact, just what several locals have opined. Well, let me tell you, these fires can sure mess up a great view! The skies have been getting more smoky as we drove north. Some roads north of Tok have been closed. For the night, we originally stopped in Northway about 40 miles south of Tok, bought groceries and set-up camp. MA was worried that we were so remote that the fires could head toward us and we would have no warning. I wasn't worried about that but, I WAS concerned that they might shut down the road INTO Tok and we might be stuck, unable to get to Anchorage. Anchorage is the Holy Grail since Berri and Colin are due to meet us there next Tuesday. So, we broke camp and drove on to Tok and parked for the night in the gravel adjacent to Three Bears Alaska gas station. It was quite eerie, very light at midnight with this smoke in the air. Seemed like a scene from from the netherworld.

The air is very heavy and uncomfortable to breathe. It doesn't seem to be caustic but you can't see more than a quarter mile in any direction. Needless to say, we slept with all windows and vents tightly shut. Fortunately, the nighttine temps are in the 50's.

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